I've also swapped galvanised pipe to copper for the kitchen (including installing a dielectric connection where they had the main copper water supply straight into galvanised before), and I'm pretty sure my next job after the kitchen will be to get rid of all the remaining galvanised pipe, as it's super accessible, won't take long and you can see spots of corrosion at various points. I really wonder where they used to go given the general lack of outlets in the house, but hopefully from the kitchen alone I can knock out all of those to begin with. Whilst looking into the (very limited) wiring in the kitchen I found the hanging live wires, then a few more in crawl space areas. After that I'll probably do each subsequent room one at a time to get rid of it (hopefully without replacing the plaster, I'm not that great at drywall).
I'm currently redoing my kitchen (with a subpanel for all the circuits it has), so nothing in the kitchen will be K&T once I'm done. Yup, my house has both this and the even more exciting "live knob and tube, that's just been left to cut and dangle into the unfinished basement/crawlspace". Similarly, you can access at least two rooms by opening only one side of any interior wall. For instance, if you have a multi-story house, you can gut the first floor and access the second from below (or vice-versa). You can cheat by only doing certain rooms. Note: you don't have to gut the entire house.
Find another way to improve these rooms until you're ready for such projects. Gutting a kitchen or bathroom is a whole other animal from gutting a living room or bedroom. Therefore, you will need to replace at least some of the trim and molding and or use furring strips along studs and around windows. You can try to protect it but plan to refinish (wood)/replace (carpet) it. It will take longer dependent upon the work you plan. It will be much more costly dependent upon the work you plan. all manner of improvements you may wish to explore.
#PLASTER RING TO USE WITH BROWN ELECTRICAL BOX INSTALL#
While the walls are open, you can seal exterior leaks, insulate the plumbing, add additional plumbing, seal/insulate ducts, relocate ducts, insulate the walls and ceilings, repair split joists, install a clothes chute, install exterior outlets & lights, run A/V and comm wiring, straighten doors, add bathroom vents, add stove hood. Replacing the walls should eliminate cracks, delaminated plaster, and uneven walls. Locate and add fixtures where you want them rather than reusing old locations. The extra cost and time will be due to everything else you will want to add into the project:īoxes can be fixed to studs instead of just hanging in the wall. The wiring itself will be much easier and quicker. This is definitely the superior result but will be much messier, time consuming, and more costly. However, I have also done the full-gut, " While you're in there, you might as well." approach. You will want a fish tape and probably a length of chain for pulling wire. Yes, assuming you have access from a basement or attic and the walls are not insulated, you can rewire everything without tearing the walls out. I've rewired two houses (both, my own), one each way.
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